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  Apple Fritters


Apple fritters, sprinkled with confectioners' sugar and eaten piping hot, make an utterly delicious dessert. They are simplicity itself; they are easy to make, and the ingredients are inexpensive and always available. I've used Granny Smith apples, a tart kind of apple that holds its shape well, as would Red or Golden Delicious or Pippin. Actually, you could use more acidic apples that break down a little faster, like the Macintosh, Rome Beauty, Macoun, and Jonathan. Sprinkle them with a little more sugar before serving to counter the acidity, and reduce the cooking time slightly.

When you make fritters, whether with fruit or vegetables, you can choose from a variety of shapes and two different methods. The fruit or vegetable can simply be cut into sticks or slices or fan shapes and dipped into the batter and fried, or it can be chopped coarsely or cut into a julienne and mixed into the batter and fried like a pancake. You have a choice of batters as well. I demonstrate two different ones here. One is a beer batter that can be put together extremely fast and makes a fritter that's fairly crisp on the outside and soft and yeasty on the inside. The other is an egg batter, which makes fritters that are spongy and soufflé like in texture—soft and creamy outside and in. There's a third batter on page 57, which you can also use for apples. Each of these batters has its own distinct texture and bite; the one you decide to use is a question of personal taste.

The Oil: Cottonseed, sunflower, and grapeseed oil are particularly good oils for frying because they withstand high temperatures without breaking down. (An oil that's broken down becomes foamy and develops an acrid and bitter smell.) Use enough oil, between 2 and 3 inches, so that the fritters float freely.

The Batter: When you make any batter (this includes batters for crepes and pancakes and the like), don't add all the liquid to the flour at once. You want to start with a thick batter because it's easier to whisk out lumps when they're embedded in a thickish mass rather than floating on top of a thin liquid. The remaining liquid can be added once the batter is smooth like silk.

Temperature: You find, as you get accustomed to frying in batter, that some batters brown faster than others and have to cook at a lower temperature. Of the two that follow, the egg batter should be cooked at a slightly lower temperature because the beaten egg white and milk brown very fast.

Beer Batter

1 can (12 ounces) beer
1 1/2 cups flour 2 pounds apples (approximately 6 to 8)
Oil for deep-frying

Pour about 2/3 of the beer into the flour and beat with a whisk until smooth. Then beat in the rest of the beer. The batter should have the consistency of a thick, heavy syrup. Although it can be used right away, the batter improves if left at room temperature for about an hour; it ferments slightly, which brings out the yeasty taste and makes the fritter puff more when fried.

Peel and core the apples. Cut them into slices 1/4 to 3/8 inch thick. Stack the slices on top of one another and cut them into | sticks about 1/4 inch wide (a very coarse julienne).
Mix the apple sticks into the batter. Heat the oil to about 350 degrees, and gently slide about 2 to 3 tablespoons of the mixture | into the hot oil. Cook only a few fritters at a time; the size of your frying pan will determine how many. Cook approximately 1 1/2 minutes on each side.

Lift the fritters out with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Then sprinkle with confectioners' sugar.

Egg Batter

1 cup flour
2 eggs, separated
1 tablespoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup milk
2 pounds apples
Oil for deep-frying
Confectioners'sugar

Mix the flour, egg yolks, sugar, salt, and 1/2-cup milk together. Beat with a whisk until smooth and thick. Mix in the rest of the milk.

Beat the 2 egg whites by hand or by machine in a clean, unlined copper bowl or a stainless-steel bowl.

When the whites are firm but not dry (they shouldn't be grainy, weepy, or full of little holes, which would indicate over beating), fold them into the batter with a rubber spatula. Fold from the center of the bowl and come up the sides, trying to lift the mixture with each stroke. Notice that the batter is thick, shiny, and smooth. It can be kept 1 or 2 days in the refrigerator or used right away.

Peel the apples with a small knife or a vegetable peeler. Core and slice them into 1/4-to-3/8-inch-thick rings (or stack the slices and sliver them into sticks. If you do not have a corer, peel and slice the apples, then cut out the center seeds with a knife.

A Place four or five rings in the batter. Heat 2 or 3 inches of oil in a skillet or flat-bottomed wok to about 330 degrees. Lift each ring from the batter and slide it gently into the hot oil, taking care not to splatter the oil. Cook 2 1/2 minutes on each side. Flip the rings with a slotted spoon. When done, remove and place them on a cookie sheet lined with paper toweling. Sprinkle with confectioners' sugar and serve immediately.

This recipe serves 8.

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