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  Artichokes and Artichoke Bottoms

The artichoke, which has been cultivated in France since beginning of the sixteenth century, is now a common vegetal on the table of the American housewife. The small artichoke can be served raw and eaten with butter and salt. Cooked, it can be served cold as a first course with oil and vinegar; lukewam as a vegetable with hollandaise or melted butter; or hot, stuffed with meat or vegetable. A good-sized artichoke weighs about 8 ounces (i.e., 32 to the case), it takes approximately 40 to 45 minutes to cook (uncovered, to keep it green) in a lot of boiling salted water. To check for "doneness," pull out a leaf; if it comes out easily it is cooked. Add the artichokes to the water only when the water is boiling. Cool them off under cold water as soon as they are cooked, otherwise they will turn yellowish very rapidly. It is better not to refrigerate them, but if you have to (you may cook them a day ahead), take them out of the refrigerator 1 hour before serving. If you serve them lukewarm, drop them in boiling water for 2 minutes and choke them just before serving.

1. Trim the stem with a knife or break it off-this helps to pull out of the heart the stringy fibers that artichokes develop when they get too old. Cut approximately 1 1/2 inches off the top leaves.

2. Trim the points of the rest of the leaves with scissors (for esthetic purposes). Secure a slice of lemon to the base of the artichoke and cook it with the artichoke. This is done only when the artichoke is to be kept a few days in the refrigerator. The lemon keeps the bottom white.

3. At serving time, pull out the center leaves, which should come out together like a small funnel. Keep them in one piece.
With a teaspoon, remove the choke from the cavity and replace the center leaves upside down. Garnish the center with curly parsley.


Artichoke Bottoms or Hearts-Basic Technique

Artichoke bottoms are used in countless recipes, cold or hot, stuffed with different ingredients from smoked salmon to stewed tomatoes to poached beef marrow. Many restaurants use canned bottoms, but the difference is quite evident. Although it takes some practice to shape or "turn" the artichoke properly, it is quite worth the effort.

1. With a sharp knife, cut the leaves all around the artichoke heart, as close as you can without taking too much "meat" out of the heart.

2. Cut the leaves a T- the point where they attach to the choke or the "hay."

3. With a small knife, trim the remaining greenish leaves and smooth the bottom as well as you can. Rub each heart with lemon. For 6 bottoms add:

1 quart water
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
the juice of 1 lemon
1/2 tablespoon salt

Bring all the ingredients to a boil and simmer for 40 to 45 minutes, or until tender when pierced with the point of a small knife. When cool enough to handle, remove the "hay" with a spoon, then place the hearts in a container with enough of the cooking liquid to cover. They can be kept for at least 1 week in the refrigerator in the broth.


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