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Blood Sausage with Apples (Boudins Noirs aux Pommes) (Serves 8 to 10) The most difficult part of making boudins is finding the pork blood. Calf blood is only a fair substitute and beef blood, readily available, will not work at all. There are many regional recipes for boudins-with leek in Ardèche, pork bead in Alsace, spinach in the Creuse, chestnut in Berry, and apple in Bresse-each region claiming to have the best and the original. 1/2 stick sweet butter 2 1/2 pounds onions (about 10 to 12 medium onions), peeled and sliced very thin (about 8 cups) 1 cup water 2 teaspoons salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper 1 teaspoon Spice Parisienne* 1 teaspoon fresh chopped savory (if available) 10 ounces leaf lard cut into small 1/4-inch dices 3/4 cup heavy cream 1 pint fresh pork blood hog casing, ready to be used (see Saucisson de Campagne) Melt the butter in a skillet, add the onion and water and cook on high beat until all the water has evaporated (about 10 to 12 minutes). By this time the onion should be cooked. Remove from the beat, add the salt, pepper, spices, savory, and leaf lard. * Spice Parisienne, called quatre epices in France, is usually a mixture of pepper, nutmeg, cloves, and cinnamon or ginger. Mix and let cool to lukewarm. Mix in the cream an blood. Using a funnel, pour the mixture into the casing. When all the mixture has been used, you may cook the boudins in a large kettle and pour boiling water on top until the water reaches about 2 inches above the boudins. Poach on low heat (do not let the water go above 180-degree or the casing will burst) for about 30 minutes. By this time the boudins will rise to the surface of the water and when punctured with a tiny needle, only a small amount of the mixture will run out of the casing; then the running will stop. Remove the boudins from the water to a tray and cool to room temperature. Cover and refrigerate. Yield: About 12 pieces. Serve 1 piece of boudins as a first course or 2 pieces as a man course. For 6 pieces of boudins: 3 red or golden Delicious apples, peeled, cored, and cut into 3/4-inch chunks 5 tablespoons sweet butter 1 tablespoon sugar 1/4 teaspoon salt Melt 3 tablespoons of butter in a skillet, add the apples and cook on medium heat for 4 to 5 minutes or until all the liquid rendered by the fruit evaporates and the slices start to brown. Add the sugar and salt and continue sautéing for a few minutes until nicely browned. Meanwhile, melt the remaining butter in a heavy skillet, prick the boudins 5 or 6 times with a regular fork, and cook in butter on low beat for 8 to 10 minutes until nicely crisp and very hot. Arrange on a platter with the apples on the side and serve immediately. Return to Top |
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