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Chicken Livers Sauteed in Vinegar Bresse, the part of France where I was born, is known as the home of the best chickens in France, and many good chicken-liver recipes come from Bresse. They're used in stuffing, in pate , or simply sautéed as we illustrate here. When shopping for chicken livers, try to get pale yellowish livers, which are fatter, sweeter, and less bitter than the dark red ones. Livers can be easily overcooked. Generally, the technique for sautéing them, which also applies to kidneys, is to cook them very fast in extremely hot fat so that the outside gets sealed and the inside stays moist and a bit pink. Then, especially for kidneys, place them in a colander or a sieve to drain. Discard the red liquid that drains off the meat, because it tends to make the dish bitter. When the livers are served with a sauce, the sauce is made separately, then the livers or kidneys are heated in the sauce without boiling. They stay moist, tender, and mild. Of course, there are other methods of cooking livers or kidneys, such as braising, which is used for steak and kidney pie. In this case the livers are well cooked for a stronger-tasting stew. The method that follows is a bit different from the traditional method of sautéing livers; I learned it from Danny Kaye, a great cook and friend. NOTE: Frozen livers should be defrosted under refrigeration so that they don't lose too much moisture. Discard the liquid that collects during defrosting. Clean properly, if necessary, before using. 1 1/4 pounds chicken livers (see Note) 3 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 tablespoons butter 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper 2/3 cup finely chopped onions 1/3 cup red wine vinegar Approximately 2/3 cup tomato pulp (peel, seed, and chop the tomatoes into a puree; the skins and liquid can be used in stock) 1-cup chicken or beef stock 1 teaspoon softened butter 1 teaspoon flour 1/4 cup finely chopped parsley The liver on the right is pale in color (our favorite), and the one on the left is darker and still has the little green bag, the gall bladder, attached to it. This bag (next to the point of the knife) should be removed, because the liquid inside (the bile) is extremely bitter. Sometimes it breaks when it is removed, and some of the liquid runs on the liver and makes it green. Any greenish part of the liver should be removed, because it will be very bitter. Bring a pot of water to boil on top of the stove. Use plenty of water, and let it boil strongly. Place the livers in a sieve, and lower them into the boiling water. Stir the livers with a spoon for about 20 to 30 seconds. The water will not even have time to come to a boil again. Lift the sieve and place it on a plate so the livers can drain. Heat the oil and the butter in a skillet large enough to hold all the livers without overlapping, or use two smaller skillets. When the fat is foaming hot, add the livers, salt, and pepper. Mix, and sauté on the highest heat for no more than 45 seconds to a minute. Remove the livers with a slotted spoon to the sieve to drain again. Add the onions to the drippings in the skillet, and sauté for 2 to 3 minutes on medium heat until slightly browned. Add the vinegar and reduce the liquid until it becomes a glaze. Add the tomatoes and stock and bring to a boil. Make a thickening agent (beurre manie) by mixing the butter and the flour together with a whisk. Stir it into the sauce with the whisk. Bring to a boil, still stirring, and let boil gently for 1 minute. Taste for seasonings. Add the livers and warm gently without boiling. Sprinkle with parsley or other fresh herbs. Serve with stewed kale or a salad green stewed in the same manner. 6 SERVINGS Return to Top | Back to Recipes |
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