 |
 |
 |
Potato Ragout This stewed potato dish was one of my father's favorites. It recalls summer for me when the garden gave forth those tiny waxy potatoes we call quenelles in Lyons, and which are particularly good in this dish. This is true family food and it remains a favorite in both my mother's home and ours. Potato Ragout is usually made with lardons (short strips of salt pork) but it can also be made with leftover ham or sausage. Salt pork (also called cured salt pork, sweet pickle, or corned belly, depending on what part of the country you're in) comes from the same piece of belly as bacon. The difference is that though it's salted like bacon, it is not smoked. Many recipes direct you to blanch salt pork to make it less salty. In this recipe, you need only wash it well under cold water. Potato Ragout reheats well and is excellent served with a tough, slightly bitter green, such as curly endive or escarole, seasoned with a strong vinegary or garlicky dressing. 1 10-ounce slab salt pork 3 large onions, peeled and quartered (1 pound) 2 tablespoons flour 4 cloves garlic, peeled, crushed, and coarsely chopped (2 teaspoons) 3 bay leaves 1 branch fresh thyme, or 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme leaves 2 1/2 cups water 2 1/2 pounds tiny potatoes, peeled, or the same amount of large potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks Rinse the slab of salt pork under running water, then cut it into 1/2-inch strips. Pile the strips together and cut into the 1/4- to 1/2-inch strips that we call lardons. Don't remove the rind as it gives the sauce a slightly gelatinous texture and is quite good to eat. Fry the strips of salt pork in a large pot for 10 to 12 minutes on medium to high heat, stirring occasionally, until they are nicely browned, crisp, and rendered of most of their fat. Add the quartered onions and cook approximately 5 more minutes, until the onions are lightly browned. Add the flour and cook for a minute, stirring to brown the flour lightly. This gives the stew a nutty taste. Add the garlic, bay leaves, thyme, and water. Stir and bring to a boil. Add the potatoes, return to a boil, then lower the heat, cover and simmer gently for 4 5 minutes to 1 hour until the potatoes are well cooked. They should be soft and mealy. Serve boiling hot with the lardons and the sauce. NOTE: Because the salt pork is so salty, there's no need to season with salt unless the pork has been blanched. 6 SERVINGS Return to Top | Back to Recipes |
|
© 2001 jacquespepin.net |