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One of the most versatile of all meats, pork is more difficult to buy than beef or veal, of which one can purchase better-quality meat by paying a higher price. Pork is not available in prime, choice, or Grade A at the local supermarket, and one has to rely on the reputation of the market. For this recipe, buy a boneless pork loin with a fresh pink color, and cut it into six steaks. Defatted pork steak should not be overcooked. Trichinosis is killed at about 138 degrees, and these steaks-sauteed briefly, then finished in a warm oven-reach an internal temperature of at least 150 degrees. They are cooked sufficiently at this point, and will be more moist and tender than if cooked to a higher temperature. The steaks are served with dried plums (prunes) soaked in port wine overnight (so get started the night before), and the sweetness of this garnish cuts down on the richness of the meat and complements it. A stew of apples, with onions, raisins, and vinegar, is a great accompaniment for the pork, and also goes well with most game and with rich poultry, such as duck and goose. The apple stew should be made first and can be reheated, if necessary, or it can be served cold (with more seasonings, and perhaps a dash of cayenne pepper) as a condiment or chutney with a roast of pork or poultry. DARK DRIED PLUM SAUCE 11/2 cups water 1 pound very large dried plums (prunes) (about 30), with pits removed Drippings from cooking the steaks 2 tablespoons chopped shallots 1 cup port wine 1 boneless pork loin, about 2 1/2 pounds 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Juice from dried plums 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 cup demi-glace 112 teaspoon potato starch dissolved in 1 tablespoon water (optional) Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste Pork Steaks with Port and Dried Plums Prepare the dried plums: Bring the water to a boil, and pour it over the dried plums. Let stand for 1 hour, then stir in the port wine. Cover, and let macerate at room temperature overnight. Trim the loin, removing all surface fat, then cut it into six 5-ounce steaks. Dampen a meat pounder with a little water (so it slides on the meat and doesn't tear it), and pound the steaks to a uniform thickness of about 1 inch. Sprinkle with the salt and pepper. Preheat the oven to 170 degrees. Melt the butter in a large, heavy skillet or saucepan (not nonstick). When hot, add the steaks in a single layer, and cook over medium to high heat for a total of 2 1/2 minutes on each side. At this point, the steaks will not be completely cooked in the center but will be nicely browned on the outside. Transfer them to an oven¬proof saucepan, cover, and place in the warm oven to continue cooking in their own juices while you make the sauce. For the dark dried plum sauce: Add the chopped shallots to the drippings in the skillet, and saute for 1 minute. Stir in the juice from the dried plums, bring to a boil, and boil for 2 to 3 minutes, scraping the pan to melt all the solidified juices. Reduce to about 1 cup. A lot of juice will have seeped out of the steaks as they continue cooking in the warm oven; add this to the sauce, along with the cup of demi-glace. Bring to a boil, and boil until the sauce is reduced to 1 1/2 cups. If it is too thin at this point, add the dissolved potato starch to achieve the right consistency, and salt and pepper to taste. Stir the dried plums into the sauce to warm them. Apple-and-Onion Stew 1 pound onions 2 1/8 pounds apples (about 5 large white-fleshed and acidic apples, such as Cortland, McIntosh, Stayman, or Opalescent) 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 tablespoon veBetable oil 1/2 cup raisins 1/2 cup cider vinegar 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 11/2 teaspoons salt 2 tablespoons sugar Peel and slice the onions thin. Do not peel the apples (the skin will give some chewiness and texture to the stew), but cut them in half, core, then cut into slices. Melt the butter in a large skillet with the oil. When hot, add the onions, and saute over high heat for 5 to 6 minutes, until the onions are lightly browned, wilted, and almost cooked. Add the apples, raisins, vinegar, pepper, salt, and sugar, cover, and cook 10 minutes, tossing occasionally. If there is a lot of liquid in the pan, uncover, and cook for 2 to 3 minutes over high heat to reduce. To serve: Arrange a ring of the apple stew around the periphery of each plate. Place a steak in the center, garnish with a few dried plums, and coat with the sauce. Serve immediately. |
PORK STEAKS WITH PORT AND DRIED PLUMS AND APPLE-AND-ONION STEW |
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