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 Although there are different types of fresh tuna available, tuna is usually eaten from the can. ln France, Spain, Portugal, and Italy, large tunas are processed according to a very strict and detailed technique. The different parts of the body, from white to darker meat, from tail meat to belly meat, are considered of different quality and used for different types of things. The Japanese use tuna a great deal in sashimi and sushi. The whiter the meat, the better the quality. When eaten raw, tuna is often soft and delicate in flavor, but somehow the taste becomes stronger when cooked. Albacore is considered the most valuable species and is the best white tuna to cook. The tuna I am using is small, often called "bonito" or "little tunny." It is not the same quality as an albacore and the meat is quite dark. Sometimes the meat is placed in a cold brine of water and salt (about 1/3 c. salt to 2 qt. water) to leach out the blood and make the meat whiter and less accented in taste. (Notice that if the tuna is "bled" in the brine it doesn't need any additional salt for the recipe here.) Then the tuna is boned and the skin removed. In the center of each fillet, there is a line of bones and a strip of meat which is dark, strong, and bitter. lt should be removed.The tuna can be grilled briefly, as l am doing in this recipe. lf it is still strong for your taste, next time place it beforehand in a mixture of 1 c. of salt to 4 c. of water 1 hour before cooking. The small tuna is available in New York markets during the summer and is quite inexpensive. ln my small tuna, only about one-third of the total weight will be usable meat. Larger tunas yield a better percentage. Briefly grilled, as in the recipe here, the tuna picks up a roasted taste from the hot grill, which touches the meat, but it is not completely cooked on the grill or under the broiler. It finishes cooking in its own juices without getting overcooked by the time it is served. The sage butter is a nice complement and the sea beans, available in specialty stores or along the shore in some parts of the country, are a nice addition to the grilled fish. The sea beans (perce-pierre in French), called glasswort or saltwort, grow in abundance along the coast of New England. Only the young, very tender shoots should be picked. They can be eaten in salads, steamed, boiled, or sautéed. Sometimes sea beans have a central stalk that is fibrous and leathery. Still, people will eat it, pulling the meat from around the stalk. The young sprouts do not have this central stalk and are tender. They do tend to be salty, however, and l recommend soaking them in fresh water for a few hours before cooking in a large quantity of unsalted water. Yield: 4 servings 1 tuna, about 4 to 5 Ib., ungutted 1/4 tsp. salt 1/8 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 1 Tb. olive oil SEA BEANS OR GLASSWORT (PERCE-PIERRE) AND CUCUMBERS 3-4 c. sea beans (young sprouts), removed from central stalk and soaked 2 hours in cool water to remove some natural salt 3 qt. water plus 2 c. 1 1/2 c. peeled, seeded, and diced cucumber 2 Tb. butter Dash freshly ground black pepper SAGE BUTTER 6 large sage leaves 1/3 stick butter (softened) 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice 1/8 tsp. salt 1/8 tsp. freshly ground black pepper  Cut the small, ungutted tuna on the bias under the fin by the gill in the direction of the head.Turn the knife around and, holding it horizontal, cut directly on top of the central bone, separating one fillet. Repeat on the other side. You will notice that in the center of the fillet there is a line of bones. On each side of these bones the meat is darker and tends to be bitter. Remove this strip of bones and meat in the center of the fillet, as well as the skin. Each fillet from the small tuna will give 2 pieces weighing about 5 to 6 oz. each. In order to grill the fish properly, use a hinged metal grill and have it extremely clean and hot. To make sure that the grill is extremely hot, place it on the gas stove first until red hot to give a good start to the tuna. Sprinkle the tuna steaks with the salt, pepper, and olive oil.  When the metal grill is red hot, place the fish steaks in the center, and close the grill.At this point, the grill can be placed on a hot wood charcoal grill or, as I am doing here, on a pan under the broiler, approximately 1 1/2 to 2 in. from the heat source. Broil the tuna 11/2 minutes on one side, then turn and cook 11/2 minutes on the other side. The steaks, approximately 1 in. thick, won't be quite cooked. Place them on a warm platter, cover, and set aside on top of the warm stove or in a warm oven to continue to cook in their own heat and juice. They should rest in this way for about 5 to 10 minutes before serving.
For the sea beans: Meanwhile, prepare the sea beans. Notice that only the tender green shoots are used. For approximately 3 to 4 c. of sea-bean sprouts, bring 3 qt. of water to a strong boil. Add the sea beans, bring the water back to the boil and let it boil, uncovered, for approximately 1 to 2 minutes. Remove the beans to ice water to cool and stop the cooking until ready to use.
While the steaks are resting, prepare the cucumbers. Bring 2 c. water to a boil and add the cucumbers. Return the water to the boil and immediately remove the cucumber by draining off the water. Combine the cucumber with the butter, the sea beans, and a dash of pepper, and warm on top of the stove just enough to heat through.
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Grilled Tuna with Sage Butter and Sea Beans
When the steaks have rested and been allowed to cook in their own heat for 5 to 10 minutes, you will notice some juices have been released. The steaks can be served whole or cut into chunks on the bias.
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